In the years 1804-6, at the request of the Imperial Crown, the establishment
of a German colony was initiated on the southern extremity of the
"gouvernement" of Cherson, in the region of Odessa and the district of
Liebental. For the reception of the arriving immigrants who had already
reached the seaport of Odessa in the late fall of 1803, winter quarters were
provided in the city itself, until houses could be built the following year.
The colony is located at the southernmost end of the Liebental district, on
the steppe river Akershi, which is fed at various places by abundant springs
before it empties into the Black Sea a mile to the south.
The land on which the colony was established belonged, so the pioneers
maintained, to the former landowner Baraboi. Various kinds of shrubs and wild
elms were to be seen. The earth was carpeted with grass and herbs.
The colony is 18 versts from Odessa and lies to the southwest of it. Twelve
versts to the northwest it is bounded by the colonies of Josephstal and
Mariental, 7 versts to the west by the colonies of Alexanderhilf and Neuburg,
16 versts southwest by the little town of Ovidiopol, which lies at the mouth
of the Dniester. Twelve versts to the south lies the Black Sea; 5 versts to
the southeast the colony is bounded by the Greek military settlement of
Alexandrovka and 5 versts to the east lies the colony of Kleinliebental.
The colony, which stretches in a northerly direction for 20 versts, comprises
(according to recent surveys) 8,820 dessiatines and is traversed by the
Akershi valley. The elevation of the colonists' land ranges from 100-300 feet
above sea level. The topsoil, especially in the valley, contains significant
layers of black humus on which various kinds of grain, such as wheat, barley,
rye, oats, and various legumes and tubers thrive, so that, under favorable
weather conditions, wheat produces thirtyfold, oats fortyfold, and barley
fiftyfold.
The trees, however, have no enduring growth. The reason for this is that the
roots cannot penetrate the layers of hard clay and loam that lie beneath the
black topsoil. The sturdiest trees are the elm and the acacia. In some places
the common acacia, the willow, the ash, the oak, and especially the mulberry,
do very well. Other trees thrive also in soil that has a top layer of gravel
and a sublayer of lime.
The stone quarries that are found about 5 versts from the village have no
great importance, for they contain only hardpan. Most of the building stone
must be bought by the villagers.
There are no woods here, except the plantation started in 1842, which provides
a pleasant sight in the growing season. Near the village is an older mulberry
plantation and a more recent one lies one verst to the east.
The naming of the village goes back to its original founder, Duc de Richelieu,
who was at that time commandant of the city of Odessa. He was so delighted
with the attractive location that he called it "GrossLiebental".
The number of original settlers is unknown; so much is certain-the number was
considerably smaller than at present. The reason for the uncertainty is that a
number of immigrants were settled here in 1817 who received a portion of the
land that had originally been assigned to the first settlers. At the last
census, 271 families were living here (833 males and 856 females). At the
present there are 289 families (1,086 males and 1,100 females). The immigrants
who settled here were from Wuerttemberg, Baden, Rheinpfalz, Alsace, Prussia,
and Saxony. The conductor of the immigrant parties was Mr. Ziegler, who was at
that time employed by the Russian government as commissioner of settlement.
The steppeland assigned to the first settlers was inhabited by a few natives
living in wretched huts, in disorder, and under slovenly economic conditions.
Besides having houses built for the immigrants, the government granted them
daily food money from the time they crossed the border into Russia. It also
advanced an appropriate loan to purchase livestock and farm equipment.
The first settlers were mostly poor people. Some were also immoral and
boorish, often lacking in common sense, foresight, and the means to establish
a settlement for their welfare and that of their descendants. And if there
were some exceptions, their number was too small to exert much influence on
the majority.
But let us now ask: How did the first settlers fare forty years ago? Oh, not
as well as their descendants now fare! After the colony was established, the
settlers were expected to cultivate the land. But many of them knew nothing
about agriculture, for they had made no acquaintance with it in their
homeland, but came here as craftsmen.
In order to promote agriculture and handicraft, the government had a large
building erected in 1807 which was to house a cloth factory. But nothing came
of this project, because farming and handicraft were still in a very primitive
condition, and the settlers did not have enough good will to tackle the job.
Thus the building remained unused, but the same year the government had a
church built.
In 1809 an epidemic ravaged the livestock and caused terrible losses.
Until 1817 every proprietor had the use of 60 dessiatines of land. However,
when new immigrants arrived that year, each proprietor voluntarily gave up
some land to them so that each proprietor had only 45 dessiatines.
Through this immigration it came about that the unused cloth factory was
turned into a hospital, for among the arriving colonists were a large number
of sick people who needed to be cared for. But the patients were not treated
as the colonial authorities had requested. The doctors appointed by the
government were in collusion with the local and district officials to their
mutual financial advantage. Instead of taking care of the sick, as their duty
and Christian love demanded, they were glad to see the sick people die, so
that they could appropriate the possessions of the deceased.
It should also be remarked that the country did not appeal to the immigrants
as much as they had expected. The arduous journey, the new climate, the
desolate and uninhabited steppe caused many to become homesick. Others
lingered miserably on their sickbeds and died. Others, again, tried to
alleviate their grief in extravagant living, by the excessive consumption of
fat mutton and sweet Greek wine. These conditions may have contributed much to
the fact that agriculture and handicrafts made such slow progress.
By order of the authorities, the still existing mulberry plantation was
started 1815. A few years later, grape vines were planted in it. But the
colonists cared so little about these plantations that some years later they
drove their cattle into them. In 1822 Court Councilor von Lau, who was then
Superintendent of the Welfare Office, ordered the planting of new mulberries
and grapevines, and subsequently the plantations were protected against the
invasion of the cattle.
Through rich harvests and several years of experience in agriculture, some
farmers became so successful that they began to lease land. In 1824, however,
there was a total crop failure. Then came swarms of locusts which caused
frightful devastation in our district until 1827. Because of these disasters
the colonists again sank into poverty and debt.
An earthquake in 1829 caused no damage. The cholera that raged in this area
the same year wiped out only one family. The year 1833 was a total disaster.
Again the colonists fell into debt, and many families became so impoverished
that it took many years to make a comeback. The Lord again sent better times.
Plentiful harvests and quick sale of the products at high prices in the nearby
city of Odessa not only enabled the colonists to repay their debts but also to
store up a surplus.
But in these blessed years many became possessed by the spirit of extravagance
and neglected to improve their farms. To be sure, the local authorities were
much to blame when many a colonist squandered his money in riotous living and
other vices, for they took no decisive measures to quell these disorders, but
were themselves addicted to drink and had even set up wine taverns in their
homes. In addition, very many injustices were perpetrated by the local
officials and the inspectors who, in utter disregard of their oath of office,
twisted the law for the sake of a bribe or as a token of their favor.
Thank God that this state of affairs was not permitted to endure too long, for
in 1841 a new district administration came into power, which has its seat in
this village and is composed of men who have the welfare of their fellow
townsmen at heart. Also the village officials were now of a different breed
than their predecessors. Through strict supervision and severe punishment of
profligates and drunkards, the earlier vulgar and immoral behavior was
suppressed, and the effort made to restore order and decency.
God's providence watched over the younger generation and many a one was
rescued from the brink of perdition. Heads of families that had in earlier
years become impoverished through extravagance and profligacy again became
strong, and inspired their children to lead a better life. Some have also been
guided by the beautiful saying in our Bible: "Pray and work, then God will
always give", and have thereby discovered that God's blessing makes rich with
honest effort.
The pest that broke out in 1837 exacted many victims in the neighborhood, but
carried off only a few people here. The earthquake of 1838 did no damage.
Although no very fruitful years followed the total crop failure of 1841, the
prosperity of the colonists has increased considerably. A person now coming
into our colony is struck by the sight of attractive, well built houses,
comfortably and often expensively furnished, and surrounded by the tidy yards,
the large barns, and concrete cellars. One has the vivid feeling of living
among Germans who are eager to emulate the homes of their ancestors.
The colony and its environs are at the present in their most flourishing state
since the days of settlement, and evoke a joyful feeling in the heart of the
viewer. Through the constant supervision of the district officials, who foster
the beautification of the colony, the stone walls surrounding the yards are
kept in good condition, gates are installed at the entrances, cinder
receptacles in the yard, and all buildings are kept tidy and in order. With
few exceptions, the individual establishments are in splendid condition.
That the colonists were able to establish themselves so nicely is due in large
part to the extensive farming and to the very useful production of livestock.
The colonists here have the additional advantage of being able to lease a lot
of land from the Greek (military) settlement of Alexandrovka, which does very
little farming. We have farmers here who lease between 100 to 400 dessiatines
annually, half of which is sometimes planted in wheat. Others have leased less
land. The huge haystacks and grainstacks that can be seen in almost every yard
give a clear idea of the farming enterprise.
What attracts the eye of the stranger most of all is the magnificent church
which was constructed through the generosity of the Czar. Towering above the
entire village with its buildings and gardens, it is an architectural
masterpiece. In the interior, one is even more enchanted when one sees the
octagonal pillars supporting the cupolaan awesome vault that is above the
altar and the large veiled window above it. The beautiful organ, whose pure
tones inspire the soul to devotion and raise the spirit beyond world and time,
has 14 registers. The visitor is all the more delighted, because there are
only very few instruments of this kind in South Russia. Beside the church
stands the parsonage, a beautiful building with several furnished rooms. On
the west side is a garden of trees covering about a quarter of a dessiatine.
On the left side of the parsonage is the schoolhouse which contains two rooms
for the schoolchildren and four other small rooms, plus a kitchen, for the
schoolmaster. Because this building is too small to accommodate all the
schoolchildren, it is most desirable that another school be built and a second
teacher hired. On the north side of the school there is a small grove of
acacia trees which was planted by the former schoolmaster Johann Utz
Down in the valley, below the parsonage, is the watercure sanatorium which was
founded in 1843 by the colonists Sonderegger and Utz, in partnership with the
foreigner Floken. With up to 85 guests per year, it enhances the colony and
provides considerable income to the townsmen. The local colonists enjoy the
blessing of abundant spring water, and everyone should be truly grateful to
the Giver of this noble gift.
In conclusion let us also visit the cemetery, the seedbed of death. It lies
about a verst from town and is surrounded by a hedge of willows. One reaches
it through an avenue of fine mulberry trees. In the middle of the cemetery
stands a hillock encompassed on all sides by numerous graves. From this summit
one can survey the Black Sea and its bays to the south; to the west one can
see the Greek settlement of Alexandrovka, the German colony of Kleinliebental,
the lighthouse, and the monastery of Fontal; to the east rises the city of
Odessa with its churches and palaces; and westward one sees the mouth of the
Dniester and the fortress of Akkerman. If we take a closer look at the
cemetery, we see many graves and crosses that remind us of the brevity of all
earthly things and the frailty of human existence, as is expressed in the
words: "Thou art dust and to dust shalt thou return." If only we would live
humbly under the mighty hand of God and learn to believe the truth of the
Word, and work for our salvation with fear and trembling! For only those are
acclaimed blessed who die in the Lord.
This brief historical survey of the founding and status of the colony of
Grossliebental was written by the sexton and schoolmaster.
Grossliebental, July 15,1848
Mayor: Horch
Burgomasters: Fuchs and Reich
Village clerk: J. Weber
Schoolmaster: Chr. Hartmann (author)
Scanned by Dale Lee Wahl
Coordinated with GRHS Village Research Clearing House
Coordinated with AHSGR/GRHS Translation Committee Chairman
This particular Village History was published in the English form in
Joseph S. Height's book "Homesteaders on the Steppe".